In the Heart of the Vatican

By Maria Milvia Morciano

Entering Vatican City State, the first thing to catch the eye is Bernini’s colonnade which extends out as if to embrace all who enter. An Egyptian obelisk dominates the center of the St Peter's Square. Everything converges on the Carlo Maderno’s Basilica façade and the loggia of the Blessings.

Designed by Michelangelo and built by Giacomo Della Porta, the Basilica’s dome, a celestial hemisphere recognizable from afar, is itself a symbol of Rome.

If the people of ancient times wanted to imitate nature in their art, St Peter’s Basilica is an image of paradise, with the colossal travertine statues of Christ the Redeemer and the saints looking down from heaven.

Carlo Maderno designed the Basilica’s interior. Light reflects off the three marbled naves, which run the Basilica’s length until they meet the papal altar.

Radiating light as from within, the Pietà is one of Michelangelo’s early works, sculptured in marble that seems as soft as wax. Emanating eternal youth, Mary is the mystery.

Aligned with the dome in the center of the Basilica sits Bernini’s bronze baldacchino, the triumphal crowning of Peter’s tomb combining two diverse concepts: the Romanesque ciborium and the processional canopy.

Right here is the spot where the stairs lead down to the crypt under the Papal Altar to Peter’s tomb.

Within the Vatican Grottoes, near the Saint's tomb, lie the remains of the popes. The pathway architecturally reflects the long march of time and of the Church’s history.

The sumptuous marble disappears in the oldest areas dating back to the first Christians. The so-called Trophy of Gaius, aedicule, protects Peter’s tomb. Its poverty and simplicity is etched in the glory of memory.

Latin graffiti decorates the wall, remnants of the pilgrims who wrote their names as a sign of their connection to the martyr.

Vatican Museums

The Vatican Museums surround the Belvedere Courtyard. Founded by Julius II in 1506 and later opened to the public by Clement XIV, the Museums contain the Papal collections of works of art, and archeological and ethnological artifacts.

In the Pinecone Courtyard, the niche containing the Roman bronze sculpture, mentioned even by Dante, is in front of Giò Pomodoro’s Sphere, creating a dialogue between past and present.

On display in the Pio-Clementine Museum are sculptures from the classical period, praised even in antiquity, such as the Laocoön and the Belvedere Torso. They inspired and influenced Renaissance artists, revealing the secrets of how to render anatomy in art.

Among the masterpieces in the Pinacoteca is Raphael’s Transfiguration, his last work prior to his death. Here divine perfection is contrasted with demonic anguish. Christ connects heaven and earth as they confront each other as if on two opposite stages.

The dialogue continues in the Gallery of Modern Art. Works of sacred art that speak to us in ever modern language are exhibited here.

Van Gogh’s Pietà, inspired by Delacroix, is among the numerous works of art here. It represents Mary’s agonizing sorrow. Her outstretched hand seems to ask for the help the artist himself needed.

Sistine Chapel

And then we enter the Sistine Chapel, commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV, the place where conclaves take place. Like paintings hanging in a gallery, scenes from the Old and New Testaments line the side walls, painted by the greatest artists of the fifteenth century. The vivid colors and harmonious shapes bear a classical imprint. Michaelangelo’s frescoes on the ceiling and altar wall were commissioned by Popes Julius II and Clement VII.

The Creation scenes from the Book of Genesis, depict God in all His might reflected in His face. His body never appears in a static, frontal position, but in free movement in space: A first in art history. These almost-touching hands are the most fascinating and effective representation of the relationship between God and man. We can almost see the spark of life about to ignite in Adam.

With the strength and beauty of a Hellenistic period statue, Christ appears in the Universal Judgment within a sphere of silence as angels and saints swirl around Him. We can almost hear their voices.

Vatican Gardens

Pope Nicholas III founded the Vatican Gardens as a place of relaxation and meditation when he transferred his residence from the Lateran in 1279. Enclosed within the Vatican walls the Gardens represents the harmonious relationship possible between the human person and nature. Most of Vatican City State’s 100 acres are designated as parks and gardens, making it the “greenest” state in the world.

Thousand-year-old trees stand alongside others that were gifts given throughout the ages to various Popes.

One well-known building is the headquarters of the Pontifical Academies of the Sciences and of the Social Sciences, Casina Pio IV. Designed by Pirro Ligorio in 1558, it is an eclectic building recalling the ornamentation of ancient Rome.

One of the areas in the Gardens dedicated to the Virgin is a reproduction of the Lourdes Grotto of Massabielle given to Pope Leo XIII in 1902. Some Popes have led Marian devotions here at the end of the month dedicated to Mary.

But Vatican City is not only a State filled with art and beauty. It also bustles with the activity of daily work in the many offices fulfilling services proper to any state. Most of the activity supports and helps the Pope fulfill his ministry, even through communications and caring for those most in need.

The Office of Papal Charities is an ancient institution providing help to the poor and those in need through the donations of the faithful. The Pope truly communicates “directly” by granting his Apostolic Blessing when requested. After covering costs, all proceeds go to charity.

Located in the Bastion of Nicholas V next to the Palace of Sixtus V is the Vatican Bank, Istituto per le Opere di Religione, established in 1942 by Pope Pius XII.

In 1506, Pope Julius II founded the Pontifical Swiss Guard as a means of defending the Popes and their residence. They are visible at every entrance, such as the Bronze Door, or the more highly trafficked Saint Anne’s entrance.

Even though Vatican City is a very tiny state, it is a place where many lay and consecrated men and women move and work in the Lord’s name under the Pope’s guidance.

Working translation from the Italian original.